After the event

Now, back home after the fun, the travel, the excitement, time to pen one more blog entry.

First of all, to cover off on the days that followed...

We came back to Firenze a little tired but happy. Keith and Julie left fairly early on Friday morning, so it was a relatively early night on Thursday. Marie and I had a nice slow day in Firenze, doing a little shopping, experiencing the "famous" Friday hailstorm and a very nice seafood dinner at Pescheria San Pietro, just across the road from S.M.N. One of the best meals of the trip.

On Saturday we caught the train to Termini then the airport. This was A LOT BETTER than the combination that we had used on the way north via Tiburtina. We didn't have adjacent seats on our tickets for the segment from Firenze to Roma but in fact there were empty seats so we could sit together. Yes at Termini we had to put up with some unwanted attention from teenagers trying to "help" us, but not having to be eternally vigilant about luggage at every stop on the regional train made it a lot easier.

At the airport I had some hassles with carrying CO2 cylinders for my tyre inflater, but once that was sorted all went well. Arriving at Dubai I was whisked through to the hotel and had a good night's sleep before an uneventful leg (exit row upstairs on the A380) from Dubai to Sydney. Arrived home tired but OK.

Next to the credits...

First of all to my good friends Keith, Julie and Marie. The trip would have been much the poorer without each of you. Keith was an enthusiastic and constant cycling companion, never complaining, happy to go or to slow or to stop. Julie helped to organise, to make everything appear sorted, to bring a positive and supporting attitude when it was needed. Marie said "oh wow" a lot and had the energy to push on and experience (and to drink grappa), helping us to see Toscana through fresh eyes. Everyone was full of good humour and we joked and teased our way across Italy.

Second to the supporting cast:

• Giovanni, for taking us under his wing on the first two days, for his incredible generosity in helping us to experience "his" Toscana, showing us Lucca, turning a wet day from a negative into a positive: an unforgettable experience. We will never forget you. Thank you.
• Davide Biordi of Hotel Magda (and our taxi driver in Emilia Romagna) for going out of his way to make our logistics work well, including enlisting family help to make sure our beach trip turned out exactly as we wanted.
• The staff (and extended family) at Casa dei Grilli in Longiano for doing that extra bit to make our visit comfortable, enjoyable and memorable. I won't forget being served la cucina d'Emilia in the garden overlooking that extraordinary view.

Third to the extraordinary events, scenery, wine, food and culture of Toscana, Emilia-Romagna and indeed Italia:

• The Chianti Classico wine festival
• The Palio in Sansepolcro. I love the intensity of passion that Italians can bring to this sort of event and the late night celebratory parade. The drums and trumpets still echo!
• Italian drivers, the best in the world and the great roads that we used. Even just thinking about how as we left Firenze, the traffic on Via Senese was happy to just sit behind us would be impossible to imagine in Australia.
• Hills, olive goves, vineyards, towns and castles on hilltops, a postcard around every corner.
• Tartufi bianco e nero! Both in one day!
• Countless lovely wines, with perhaps the best being the Chianti Classico wines we drank at San Lorenzo markets.
• Climbing for 16km without feeling shattered.

Last to the technology and information that allows us (or at least me) to plan and execute such a fabulous trip from the comfort of my home PC, and the technologies that bring our fabulous bikes through such a trip with zero problems!

Going to the beach

Davide turned up bright and early to collect le donne so by 10:30 we were off, first to shed the altitude we had gained the previous day then across the flat to Rimini. We saw lots of other cyclists and joined a couple of bunches for a while on the road section. Keith and I stopped for photos at the Rubicone  and then joined the cycle path into town. Nice quick riding! The cycle path ends just a handful of blocks from the beach and so we zoomed through the traffic to the beachfront and then along the cycle path to beach club #66.

Meanwhile, Davide had taken Julie and Marie to the beach club. He kindly supplied towels (to be collected the next day by his sister), and had done all the negotiations with the beach club so that changing, showering etc. was easy. Marie and Patrick went for a swim, we had a seafood lunch and then it was time to leave, but we had done it, coast to coast!

Davide had gone out of his way to be helpful and it was much appreciated. I can certainly recommend that others might use Hotel Magda because you won't get better, more friendly service anywhere.

Ride data

Keith and I cycled to the railway station where we were met by the ladies and the luggage. After bagging up the bikes so that we could used the express train it was a relatively straightforward trip back to Firenze.

To Longiano

The day started with confirming the logistics for passengers and luggage to Rimini. With that sorted, we set off on a slightly easier route than originally planned. We used the cycle track for 10kms or so along the river. Marginal on a road bike but we coped. Then through rolling country. As we approached Longiano it got hotter and steeper, with one or two unrideable bits.

Keith and I got separated a few ks out of town. After realizing that we had taken different roads down a hill we decided to make our own ways to Longiano. In any event we arrived only 10-15 minutes apart.

Ride data

Longiano

We quickly showered to make lunch and then rested. In the evening we shared a bottle of wine in the garden of the B&B before walking down the road to a restaurant for dinner. The restaurant served typical local food. The view out to the coast was great.

Leaving Toscana

What a lovely ride!

We set off at 8:30, mindful of the 16km climb. In the event it wasn't difficult. Grades around 7% for the most part, with cloud cover keeping the temperature down. We stopped a couple of times on the climb for a drink or a photograph but it was just steady going. There were great views back into the Tiber valley. 

After the summit it a short coffee stop then it was a fast run down the hill, once again with great views.

We cruised though Badia Tedalda but we were making such good time that we decided to have lunch at Novafeltria. The route followed Fiume Marrechia downstream with some spectacular views.

Ride data

By the time I got there Novafeltria I was quite sugar depleted so it was lucky that it was mostly gently downhill for the last 10km. We were welcomed at the hotel and tucked straight into lunch.

Novafeltria clock tower

In the evening we walked around Novafeltria and for dinner had a feed of pizza and red wine... Pretty good.

A quiet day after the Palio

We all opted for some quiet time on Monday. I went to see the cathedral and the museum. Not bad.

In the evening to celebrate Marie's birthday we went to Al Coccio where we had the degustation menu.

Menù Degustazione

Flan di porcini e taleggio con fonduta di tartufo

Crostino di porcini

Tagliatelle con asparagi, porcini e tartufo nero

Agnolotti al ragù bianco d'anatra e tartufo nero

Tagliata di manzo al tartufo nero

Patata schiacciata al tartufo nero

Dessert della casa

Superb. Look at all those dishes featuring black truffle! I had ordered a cake so we got to sing "Tutti Auguri"! My pick was the agnolotti, others thought that the manzo was best but it was all good. We washed it down with a SB from Friuli, a Brunello and a super Tuscan from Chianti Classico.

Memorable food, excellent decor and service.

On the way back to the hotel we passed the Lace School with this statue of bobin lace making outside.

Day six- to Sansepolcro

A short ride and a memorable afternoon.

We navigated out of town OK after finding a way to the rear of the Duomo. The first section of the ride was arrow straight but all along getting slowly more uphill. The steepness kept increasing until the pass at Scheggia and then a nice downhill to Anghiari with a short climb to the town. From there down and across the flat to Sansepolcro.

Ride data

Anghiari

We cleaned up and had lunch at a great bar. Julie had done some great work in buying us front row seats for the evening's festivities, and what festivities they were! Marching, drums, costumes, flag tossing and 101 archers competing in the crossbow tournament. A local was declared the winner and the whole troupe set off for an extended street parade with the drums and trumpets going for hours.

The usual flag tossing and marching with drums and trumpets

The away team

All in authentic costume

The first shot of over 100

The result... lots of broken arrows and many knocked out

We returned to the bar, then dinner and bed, although the celebration of the local win had the bands and other participants marching the streets for hours, very well received by the local crowds.

Day five ride

In one word, perfect!

We set out from Greve around 9:30 and the climb began immediately. However it was perfect conditions with just the right temperature and so the 7k climb felt easy. Lots of cyclists out for a Saturday spin.

Goodbye to Chianti

Down the other side and into a foggy patch which in the forested hills made it very attractive. 

When we reached the area of S. Giovanni val dArno we stopped for coffee. The route after that was undulating with some steep pinches.

Laterina war machines

Piazza at Latetina alta

We had lunch at Laterina and then the route was flatter through to Arezzo.

Magic day of 64k and nearly 1000m of climb.

Ride data

The evening in Arezzo was used for a little exploring and then probably the most disappointing meal of the entire trip, even though the restaurant was well rated on Trip Advisor.

A day in Greve

It started poorly with nonstop rain till mid afternoon. After that it improved and the wine festival came back to life. I bought some lovely olive oil to take home.

Then I did an exhaustive tasting of the grappe and bought some. The afternoon was enlivened by the street musicians who are a feature of the festival.

Day 3 was better...

We woke this morning to a better forecast. Both Il Meteo and AccuWeather haf it pretty clear after 10am even though it was raining. The forecast was correct though: no rain! Actually we were a bit lucky as in several places the road was freshly wet as there were occasional passing showers.

View back towards Firenze

Leaving Firenze on the busy road through Porto Romano was fine. The drivers just sit and wait until it is safe to overtake. The back roads we used to get to Impruneta were good if a little steep in places. At Impruneta we stopped for cafe and cornetti. Easy mostly downhill from there to Strada in Chianti, then another climb before a very nice downhill to Greve.

Ride data

We checked in, had lunch and waited for those unavoidably detained by shopping in Firenze :-) The view out over the piazza was the promise of what was to come, with all the stalls built but not occupied.

At 5pm the Chianti Classico wine festival kicked off with typical Italian pomp including the brass band. Wines from 99 producers, probably 250 wines in total, all from the Chianti Classico region were available for tasting. On addition there were many olive oil producers.

We tasted some lovely wines and had a great time! The arrangement for tasting is that you get a tasting glass and a punchcard of seven tastes for €10. In truth though there is little incentive for the wine makes to punch your card, so if you don't offer it they often don't care. After all they are there to have you taste their product! All of the stalls were from Chianti Classico, some also showing other wines (Super Tuscans, whites, Vin Santo), some also with olive oil and some with grappa.

For dinner we went back to the hotel (not far as you can see) for a pretty nice dinner on the balcony again.

Day two a washout

Well the thunderstorms and rain did not let up. Given the route it would have been dangerous. Giovanni very generously turned up with his car and drove us all with bikes back to Florence, along the planned riding route so at least we got to see it,  through the rain and fog. The trip convinced me that it had been the right decision to not ride, with water over the road in some places, heavy rain, cloud and mist: in truth I expect that we would have abandoned even if we had set out.

So thanks to the extraordinary generosity of Giovanni we arrived safely back in Florence looking forward to tomorrow's ride. We took Giovanni to lunch as a small thank you, fairly close to the hotel.

Montecarlo

We had a very satisfying first day of riding. The train worked out well and we were meet at Viareggio Station by Giovanni. After a short tour of the waterfront we headed off for the first of three climbs of the day. It was hot rather than steep but we made it to the top to be rewarded by great views over the coast. The road up had the painted signs from the tiffosi... "Contador" etc. But they were probably a little quicker than I was.

Port at Viareggio

View of Viareggio from the top of the climb

Then it was mostly downhill with one smaller climb. Mostly lovely rural roads. Giovanni's local knowledge really helped. We met up with Julie and Marie for lunch on Lucca.

Ride data to Lucca

Giovanni took us to his late mother's vacant house to wash up then we had lunch: not really inspiring but good fuel, and then after riding one circuit on Lucca's walls it was of to Montecarlo. Once again the final climb was hot but OK. After a refreshing malty beverage or two we walked the small town taking in the great views as the colours changed from golden to blue.

Ride data to Montecarlo

We dined at the Osteria which was very good.

Day one ride photos

Montecarlo

View at Montecarlo

Lucca's walls

View from top of first climb

Viareggio harbour

Best wine so far

A second evening at San Lorenzo, different food and even better wine!

Early morning in Florence

Sunday in Firenze

Including a fabulous dinner at the San Lorenzo markets.

Water trough in Via Nazionale

Best wine of the night

Crowd enjoying San Lorenzo markets

Antipasto

An old friend (the first winery we ever visited in Tuscany)

Night photography

Il Duomo looks impressive: lit at night

Quiet streets as we walk back to the hotel